Yamaha Revstar 502T - Mods for a Lefty

[kanjinha]

Good day, hoping to find you all well.
 

I did search in this forum for an answer but haven't found one (apols if there is one i missed), and would like to make a couple questions seeking experts feedback.
 

Fast-forward, I am a newbie in this world and at 40y I decided to start a new hobby. As soon as I saw the Yamaha Revstar 502T in Bowden Green colour I knew I had to buy and so I did. I am a lefty, and I thought it was just a matter of buying a new NUT for lefties and restring and was ready to go. However, after speaking to a friend yesterday he told me I was wrong and the Nut was not enough. I have to change the bridge as well otherwise I have intonation issues
The worst part, he tells me that the bridge in this guitar its not 100% parallel to the nut and as a slight angle. So I need to remove it, buy a bridge for lefties, drill 2 new holes in the guitar to fix it, and I would have the 2 holes open from the right-handed bridge.

Reason I come to you:

1) Is the above correct? just changing the nut is not enough?
2) if yes, is there someone here who did that or knows someone and can tell me if that works well? (despite the 2 open holes in the guitar body..)
3) I live in London, if I have to do this to play it left-handed, do you have contact with a luthier, someone who does this type of work? That could be somehow affordable for a newbie?

Otherwise I am not doing anything and probably would have to sell the guitar again unfortunately. Why would it be that difficult for Yamaha to do the P90s version for lefties when they already sell them with humbuckers...
 

I thank you all in advance,
Regards
Joao

 

[Dad3353]

10 minutes ago, kanjinha said:

...I thank you all in advance,..

 

Your buddy is correct, the bridge on this model is, indeed, slanted, with not enough travel for the intonation to be adjusted for 'lefty' stringing. It can be corrected by a decent luthier, and it's not a particularly difficult job. It would imply, however, removing present bridge fixings, plugging the holes and re-drilling for the other angle before refitting the bridge. The nut, of course, is simple enough and would be done at the same time. The only 'downside' would be the visible plugs where the present fixings had been. Is it worth doing..? I can't give any recommendations for workshops that could do this (I'm in France...), but the first step would be to choose a tech and get a quote. I wouldn't expect it to be too onerous, and the result would be a guitar that you could be proud of, with the plugs as 'badges of honour'. A quick search shows well over a score of workshops in and around London; you have a wide choice before you. If the instrument 'speaks' to you, it would be a shame to sell it when it could be tailored for you. Your call; let us know how it goes, please..? Meanwhile...

 

Have a splendid day.

 

Douglas

[kanjinha]

7 hours ago, Dad3353 said:

 

Your buddy is correct, the bridge on this model is, indeed, slanted, with not enough travel for the intonation to be adjusted for 'lefty' stringing. It can be corrected by a decent luthier, and it's not a particularly difficult job. It would imply, however, removing present bridge fixings, plugging the holes and re-drilling for the other angle before refitting the bridge. The nut, of course, is simple enough and would be done at the same time. The only 'downside' would be the visible plugs where the present fixings had been. Is it worth doing..? I can't give any recommendations for workshops that could do this (I'm in France...), but the first step would be to choose a tech and get a quote. I wouldn't expect it to be too onerous, and the result would be a guitar that you could be proud of, with the plugs as 'badges of honour'. A quick search shows well over a score of workshops in and around London; you have a wide choice before you. If the instrument 'speaks' to you, it would be a shame to sell it when it could be tailored for you. Your call; let us know how it goes, please..? Meanwhile...

 

Have a splendid day.

 

Douglas

Hi Douglas,

 

This is exactly the answer I was looking for. I really appreciate your information and next steps to do if I want to change things my way in the guitar. I will have a look here in London, there will be some good options, and then I'll decide what I do with it.
Selling then will always be an option if I also get a good price for it,  let's see and no rush.

All the best to you and hoping you are having a good summer in France, not a british summer i mean

 

cheers

[Dad3353]

 

Spring..? Late coming. Early Summer..? Far too hot; no rain. Late summer..? A couple of very wet weeks, then sunny spells, then thunderstorms. Hot for the season, and expected to continue thus for a few weeks more. Exceptional pollen count, I've learned, which explains my lingering hay-fever. T'will pass; all things do. 

[kanjinha]

16 minutes ago, Dad3353 said:

 

Spring..? Late coming. Early Summer..? Far too hot; no rain. Late summer..? A couple of very wet weeks, then sunny spells, then thunderstorms. Hot for the season, and expected to continue thus for a few weeks more. Exceptional pollen count, I've learned, which explains my lingering hay-fever. T'will pass; all things do. 

 

top!

[kanjinha]

8 hours ago, Dad3353 said:

 

Your buddy is correct, the bridge on this model is, indeed, slanted, with not enough travel for the intonation to be adjusted for 'lefty' stringing. It can be corrected by a decent luthier, and it's not a particularly difficult job. It would imply, however, removing present bridge fixings, plugging the holes and re-drilling for the other angle before refitting the bridge. The nut, of course, is simple enough and would be done at the same time. The only 'downside' would be the visible plugs where the present fixings had been. Is it worth doing..? I can't give any recommendations for workshops that could do this (I'm in France...), but the first step would be to choose a tech and get a quote. I wouldn't expect it to be too onerous, and the result would be a guitar that you could be proud of, with the plugs as 'badges of honour'. A quick search shows well over a score of workshops in and around London; you have a wide choice before you. If the instrument 'speaks' to you, it would be a shame to sell it when it could be tailored for you. Your call; let us know how it goes, please..? Meanwhile...

 

Have a splendid day.

 

Douglas

 

Ah! Have another quiestion about my topic:

 

I was looking at the guitar again and noticed something. although the bridge is a 'tiny bit' slanted, I can see that the top part of the bridge has points of adjustment. I mean, they can travel forward and back, i.e., i can 'mimic' or bypass the slant issue by mirroring the position of the adjustment points when i restring to the opposite side. in this way, i don't have to replace or move the bridghe at all.

 

Does this make sense? Or, did you understand what I mean? Maybe with a picture of the top part of the bridge will help understand better.

 

Even understanding what I mean, what I said probably continues to not making sense from a technical perspective, that being slanted to the opposite angle can still bring intonation issues in a way. (hoping someone understands what i tried to say )

cheers

[Dad3353]

 

27 minutes ago, kanjinha said:

... they can travel forward and back, i.e., i can 'mimic' or bypass the slant issue by mirroring the position of the adjustment points when i restring to the opposite side ...

 

Nice try, but I covered that in my original reply. Too far to travel, I'm afraid. The idea is good, but not in this case. Sorry. 

 

9 hours ago, Dad3353 said:

... with not enough travel for the intonation to be adjusted for 'lefty' stringing ...

 

On the other hand, as you have the guitar to hand, you could try it for yourself and see. It won't hurt anything, and I would like to be proved wrong if you get it to work. Are you feeling lucky..? 

Edited August 18, 2023 by Dad3353

[kanjinha]

So when you say to try myself, its just moving the strings the opposite way right? Then regarding the intonation, its like trying to get the string to stay in tune?

 

or you also mention, having the string at the correct height because of the playing over the frets etc? this was a bit more not so beginner level id say.

 

newbie  question sorry: if i just move the string the opposite way, grab my tuner and tune the strings (if possible), then it means the guitar is in tune, how about overall intonation? I have no idea about intonation etc etc.

 

Thanks

[Dad3353]

22 minutes ago, kanjinha said:

... I have no idea about intonation ...

 

Let's deal with this one, then. An open string on a guitar gives a note; the same string fretted at the 12th fret should give the same note,exactly one octave higher. We can find the exact octave easily, by playing a harmonic at the 12th fret (pluck the string whilst touching the string very lightly above the 12th fret...). In an ideal world, the intonation is correct if the harmonic and the fretted 12th sound the same. It is not always so, due to many factors, such as the care with which the guitar was assembled, and the age, gauge and 'quality' of the string itself. On an acoustic guitar, the luthier has taken care to glue the neck in place, then the bridge, so that the intonation is correct (or, at least, as best as he/she can make it...). There is no provision for adjustment. For an electric guitar, mass production, and other factors, are such that this exact, permanent, intonation is rarely achieved. This is why there is scope for slight modification in the string length (by moving the saddles back or forth...), so as to have the 12th fret sounding exactly the same note as its harmonic. Different string thicknesses, and their windings, make it necessary to have a little variation in the correct position; typically the result is best obtained by having the heavier strings with their saddle further back from the nut. Each string will have its optimum position. Once set up, it's seldom necessary to alter this; if the intonation is 'off', it's often because the strings are too old and worn out. Changing for a different make or gauge of string does, however, require a new check and adjustment of the intonation.
You can check this yourself, by sounding the harmonic at the 12th fret, then playing the same string at the 12th fret. Are they the same note..? If the fretted note is 'sharp', the saddle needs to be backed off from the nut a little. If the fretted note is 'flat', the saddle has to move towards the nut a little. Any use..?