Dad3353

(@Woodinblack : I've moved it to 'Amps'n'Cabs'...) @dewayne : The jack sockets on the front of the amp are for plugging in the instrument. The jack sockets at the rear are for inserting Fx such as reverbs, delays or flangers etc. They are not designed to send nor receive signals straight from an instrument (different impedance and output levels...). Here's a decent page explaining in more detail what's what that you might like to consult... Effects Send and Return and Why You Should Use Them ... Hope this helps.

Useful for plugging into my Tascam interface, and would also be good for sending to FOH if I played 'live'. I don't know why more don't do things this way.

I've 'Reported' this, hoping to get a reply from Admin. I'm only a Mod; I can't see anything untoward. We'll see what the Upper Echelons think of it. A bit of patience, please..?

Good evening... I'd wonder why you specifically want a valve amp in this range. This amp has two EL84 valves, which do not have the same tones as the classic Marshalls. Not that that's a Bad Thing, but it means that you can't refer to the 'Marshall Sound' with it; it's more like a 'Vox AC30' style. If you have played one, and like it, that's fine, of course, but it wouldn't do for me. For half of that money, I'd recommend a BlackStar or a Boss Catana, both solid state, with 50 and 100 watt models with far more tone choices, all of them good, at all volume levels. I've a healthy respect for the 'Marshall Sound' in its historic context, and they do some good combos, but this model is not voiced like these. Your choice, naturally, but, unless you've chosen it for its own sound, I'd suggest looking wider. Disclaimer : I'm old, and a drummer, to boot, soooooo...

Good morning, @Rosie C, and ... ... Plenty to read and amuse you here, and lots to learn and share.

It's pretty certainly a ubiquitous Fender Twin Reverb, a 'standard' for this type of use. May I ask 'Why the question..?' Surely not for the horrendous tones recorded on that video..?

Yes, you may. ... Are you going to..? ... ... ... ... Just kidding; Lower Normandy, France. ... ... ... France is in Europe.

Tarmac was renewed, a few years ago now, but with the daily passage of our neighbour's tractor, it gets muddy pretty quickly, which dries to a sandy dust. The fog is a common feature of our micro-climate here; this region is not known for its droughts. This keeps the grass green.

Price for price, and for equivalent condition, I'd suggest that the Fender would be the better deal. Any signs of repair, on any such guitar, would need to be fully investigated (this goes for most s/h acoustics, of course, but 12-strings have their own foibles...). Check carefully that the sound board (table...) of the guitar is nice and flat; some models have a tendency to have the bridge pull up, forming a 'belly', due to the extra tension of so many strings. To prevent this, it was a 'standard' trick to tune down one tone ('E' becomes 'D' etc...), and use a capo at the second fret to bring it back to regular 'E' tuning. It's always best to have a decent gig bag, at least, or a hard case; be aware that the extra headstock length has to be taken into account when buying a case. Other than that, it's much like any other s/h guitar. I'd expect to pay about 300€ for those models, in good condition for their age, maybe a bit more for the Fender, but not the double. Good luck with the hunt; report back here when you find what you're after..? Hope this helps.

The technical reason is that chords are, in their basic form, defined by their lowest note (so an 'Am' should have an 'A' as its lowest note...) the open 'E', although in the triad, robs the 'A' of its status; the chord becomes 'E, A, C' instead of 'A, C, E', and could be named 'E sus4#5', following the 'lowest note gives the name' notion. In practise, everyone would still call it 'Am', or better still 'Am/E' (the stroke indicates that it has an 'E' as a bass note...). I'd echo the above ^^ advice about strumming all the strings, all the time, and try to only play the strings that 'count'; in the 'Am' example, the low 'E' would, indeed, 'muddy' the sound. All chords have multiple names, for the same set of notes, and it should be the lowest note that gives the 'usual' name. These 'enharmonic' chord names are seldom used, though, except in particular circumstances when composing specific harmonies. One may play an instrument for one's whole life and never come across this; they do occur in orchestral composition, or jazz themes, though; here's one from the Mickey Baker jazz method... It takes its name from the 'root' 'G' on the 'D' string, or from the 'missing' root 'E' played by a bass player, and absent from the chord on guitar. Either way, only the strings fingered are played, never the 'open' strings. Disclaimer : I tend to prefer other voicings, and would privilege 'moveable' chords, that don't use open strings at all, and can therefore be played anywhere on the neck. I seldom play all six strings (usually four, often three...) by 'clawing' with my right-hand fingers, rather than strumming 'up'n'down'. There are exceptions (jig'n'reels in 'D', using hammer-on's for melody lines, or open tunings...). Hope this helps.

Don't knock it until ...

Solid production, tight rhythm section (drums, bass...), composition and structure compatible with the genre. Listening to it with musician friends and family, the only real detail was the lyrics, which give away that it's not written by a native English speaker. Not that it's bad, quite the opposite; well done for getting so much right, but we looked up the band to find, as was 'suspected', that you're from Spain. For that, then, congratulations; we would have one heck of a job to write anything at all in Spanish, let alone a convincing metal track..! Disclaimer : I'm old, and 'metal' is really not my 'go-to' listening..! Nevertheless, I listened through (twice..!), which is, in itself, exceptional, for me, so you may feel proud..! Well done to all involved, and good luck 'break a leg' with the tour.

Good afternoon, @FieldsNPT, and ... ... Plenty to read and amuse you here, and lots to learn and share.

Good evening, @Adders60, and ... ... Plenty to read and amuse you here, and lots to learn and share.

I totally agree with this; my Takamine is fitted with these ... ... I have 'etching fingers', which rapidly turn steel or nickel-steel strings to red rust; these 80/20 bronze strings suit the guitar perfectly, with the added advantage of being the same gauge as my electrics and semi-acoustics, all fitted with nano-web sets. They last, for me, much longer than any other make of strings; I previously had to change in less than a year, but these were fitted over a year ago now, and are as good as when fitted, although I admit that I don't play my acoustic every day. It's a joy when one finds the right set for any guitar or bass; I'd even extend this to establishing the best heads for an acoustic drum set..! I used Remo Ambassador heads for decades, but the later choice of Evans Genera and G2 heads made a world of difference..!

Good evening, @Matt_gtr76, and ... ... Plenty to read and amuse you here, and lots to learn and share.

Similar to this one..? Reverb ad ...

I found this after a web search ... I found my guitar's serial number by looking through the sound hole towards the fingerboard. The number is stamped on the neck block. Entering this number on this web site http://www.guitardating.com/takamine.php results in: Date Your Takamine The guitar was manufactured Sunday, December 14th, 1973. It was the 42nd guitar made that day. Have a look through the sound hole on yours, maybe..? Hope this helps.

This week, Thomann have this model, new, at £2070; why would I want a 2021 model..? You are, of course, aware that this one does not have a cutaway like the 314..? Does that matter to you at all..? Thomann have the 314 at just under £2000, new. Free delivery for either, I think.

Simple..? Did you say 'simple'..? Hm. My idea of 'simple' (my next birthday I'll be 75...) is a lead from the guitar straight into the amp..! As for your dilemma, my suggestion would be to buy the Tonex One, and either send it back after trials if it doesn't meet your needs, or keep it for a while longer, then decide to either sell it , or sell the Ampero if it has become redundant. No video demos or 'hype' will really show what choice is best; only your own set-up and playing style will do that. Be aware of the trap, of course, of trialling the thing, only to decide to keep both..! Does this help..? Douglas

Ah. For this, I'd refer you to my usual words of encouragement that I often dish out, when subjects such as this arise... 'It's the first forty years that are the worst, after which things sometimes tend to get slightly better.'

Learning to hear intervals can be accelerated muchly by starting from any one note (low 'E' for instance...), and counting out, from the scale, where the 'second' is (clue, it's F#...), then playing it, naming it out loud, and singing it. Do this, from the same low 'E', for all the other intervals : find the higher note from the scale, play it, name it and sing it. That won't take long at all; just a couple of minutes. Repeat, starting from another note (open 'A' string, for instance...), finding the interval from the 'A' major scale, play it, name it and sing it. Rinse and repeat, for as many starting notes as you wish. Doing this for a week or so, just in 'idle' time, will bring on a rapid appreciation of what these intervals sound like, in any key. It's a 'no-brainer', really, it's so easy and productive. You won't need to refresh this over time, as it becomes ingrained and automatic, very quickly. Hope this helps. Edit : to be really 'swish', one may continue beyond the octave and find/play/name/sing the extended intervals, 9th, 11th, 13th ...

When singing a melody through, in your head or out loud, try to pick out the highest and lowest notes, when you get to them. That's when to pick up the guitar and find those notes, and only those notes. That'll determine where on the fingerboard the rest of the melody lies, so, having established the extremes, now find the initial, starting note, keeping in mind these extremities. Does this help..?

Firstly (Good evening...), are we talking acoustic or electric guitar..? Any chance of a recording (a video with a 'phone should be enough, if it picks it up...), which would help enormously. Over to you...

If, as you say, it's minimal, I wouldn't worry about it at all. There are many guitars (even acoustics...) that are not symmetrically balanced anyway, so even if the wall mount was 'plumb', the weight could well be offset. I've never heard of a guitar neck being affected by being hung this way; they are pretty solidly constructed. If it's only an aesthetic thing, I'd leave it alone. It would be possible to redress things a little, without taking the wall mount down, by winding a piece of cloth onto one side of the mount, as packing, to have the guitar 'plumb'; I'd surely not bother. Hope this helps.