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Get some wood. Kicking off with a Martin from circa 1840 with original hard case, but a dodgy newer bridge... which will soon replaced with an original looking one when I get some cash!

A topic for photos of folks' Builds. I'll start it off with a photo of the guitar built by Our Eldest, and finished (but are they ever really finished..?) the other day. It plays well, too... Over to you, then; show us your Builds...

You mention 'fast position and chord changes'. My single piece of advice would be to solve this issue by doing things slowly. Slow is the new fast. Slow is the fastest way to do fast. Whatever it is you're wanting to do, do it slowly, preferably with a metronome, or whatever you use for tempo, but set it to slow. Do whatever it is you are wanting to do, slowly, for a while (two, three weeks..? Every day, for ten-fifteen minutes..? Slowly..!). Once it can be done, slowly, well, up the tempo a little. No, just a little (60 bpm becomes 65 bpm, for example...) do this, regularly, for another 'while', and once you've become proficient at it, up the tempo a tad more (65 becomes 70..?). Repeat; if, after a 'while' it's still not smooth, clean, easy, go back down a tad with the tempo and repeat. It is useful, and recommended, to start from the original 'slow' tempo now and again, for a day or so, working back up to one's current tempo, as a refresher. Always with the metronome, or whatever you use for tempo. This is the way to obtain whatever speed one wants, and is the guaranteed fastest way. Is there a downside..? Yes, it requires a large bucketful of Patience. Those without this essential accessory will not achieve their goal, so be sure to have that bucket, and keep it well topped up. It is of no advantage to do this for hours on end, nor too many times a day, but if time permits, a couple or three sessions of 10-15 minutes (no more...) may be permitted. The key is in the regularity (every day...), in the keeping the tempo slow (hence the metronome or equivalent...) and the Patience. It cannot, and never does, fail. Douglas

Any excuse to post an image of my 66 Tele

Here we are, the morning after my first gig* as a guitarist and I’m wondering what I was worried about. Apart from the fact that it got really cold when the sun went in** which made fretting a challenge at times, everything went fine and the GR55 was incredible (hilarious watching people looking for the sax player when I did the solo in Dancing In The Moonlight). A little tense before we started but any nerves there were, as @ezbass predicted, vanished as soon as I played the first note. Thanks all for the wise words. *Private party outdoors, socially distanced and within the guidelines. **That happens.

OK - here's one of my recent lightweight builds. Built for my sister-in-law at 25" scale length and 5lbs 3oz total weight. Amboyna top, oak back (from her late mother's mantlepiece), maple/purpleheart/mahogany neck :

Put it all back together, polished it up and it plays just fine. What a bargain

I don't think I've posted here before - I'm a member of basschat.co.uk, but after playing bass for decades, lately I've been singing and playing mandolin and octave mandolin. I don't actually play guitar, though I have a couple of guitar-shaped objects in my collection - an acoustic guitar bodied octave mandolin, and earlier this year a local guitar builder converted a copy of a Gibson SG to mandolin for me. I'm currently working towards a Rock School grade 2 acoustic guitar exam... with a mandolin!

Six months ago I bought my Hohner acoustic guitar when I decided it was about time I started to play again, I then purchased an Epiphone Gibson Les Paul Studio 2. This week my wife brought home an acoustic classical guitar that was going to be sent to the tip. I soon realised that it's previous owner had restrung it incorrectly with the strings fitted in the wrong order, there is also a little damage to it but I figured for the price of a set of strings it was worth messing about with. Three days on and aside from the new strings taking a while to stretch its not a bad little thing to mess about with, and I have been trying a few of the easy classical pieces that I used to play. All very basic stuff ( probably aimed at primary school leve) but I am enjoying it!

And...it's finished!!!! The 'last few jobs' always turn out to be a 'myriad of final jobs. Anyway, all sorted. I'm passing it across to Alex tomorrow - I will try and get him to do a bit of recording at one of their band practices but, in the meantime, you'll have to trust me when I say it sounds great . Although it is just a small wiring change and no hardware change, I've opted NOT to go for the P-rails standard wiring system which gives: Full series humbucker; parallel humbucker; P90; Rails. I've used that system in a number of my own gigging guitars and I found that: - the fact that both pickups are always in the same configuration for the four options is actually, ironically, quite limiting. I was always hankering for, such as, 'neck pickup full series humbuck for the depth, mixed with bridge pickup in split coil mode to add a bit of extra treble and dispel any muddiness' and similar - I also never, in practice, used the rails by themselves...not enough ooomph - and I never, in practice, used the humbuckers in parallel...not enough depth I talked that through with Alex and, for kickoff, we decided to have a standard split coil option for both pickups where the operating coil in each case was the P90. So he can go full series humbucker with 3 way options, P90 with 3 way options and one (either) pickup P90 and the other series humbucker. It's a 30 minute job to change the wiring to the 'P-rail standard' options if he wants to try that in the future. Anyway, here are some of the arty-farty finished pics: Thanks again for watching this develop and your kind remarks along the way

Hello all, Long time BassChatter, first time GuitarChatter. I am currently in the process of a proof of concept guitar…an electric resonator. Here’s the initial design and parts and woods I’m going to be using; Specs will be; 1 piece walnut body Roasted Maple neck hipshot tuners biscuit bridge Monty’s Firebird neck pickup Cream double binding I hope some of you will be interested in seeing this come together.

i used one continuous oak board (easy cuts) to make this: lots of sanding, some stain, etc. I used the scraps to create supports for the bottom side (given the stomping): i used a 1 3/8" hole saw to cut an opening for wires. i then took that plug and split it in half to make posts, to wrap the excess wire: on the underside, i used wire ties, tacked into the wood, to secure the power lines: in the far corner above, you can see i velcroed the transformer onto the underside. then, velcro on the top, and on the pedals, and a $6 leather handle: then, rubber feet on the bottom, and wire it all together. PS this is not representative of my pedal setup, this is just for testing! i'll post the actual rig soon. it's made it through 6 gigs. hopefully more to come (we have about a dozen lined up!). what i'd change- it doesnt stand on it's side, probably because of how heavy pedals are. to put a stand plate on one side would mess with the aesthetic. what i'm thinking of adding- maybe a shoulder strap so i can make one trip from the car to the studio. i can send plans if anyone wants.

And she’s done! Strung with D’Addario 12-56. Just need to let the settle in and then add the dots to cover the bolts. It sounds lovely acoustic and plugged in.

Is that what's meant by 'air guitar'..?

Your wish etc...

More on the Green Death soon... I've been a bit distracted by another project

It just wouldn't be right not to ask this...

I like Larry Carlton

I picked up a super cheap Ibanez S670 with a fake body for 1500RMB ten days ago and went about upgrading, fixing and customising it with chrome Gotoh hardware and Dimarzio Satriani signature pickups. I wanted to do a Chromeboy painted finish but it's not possible to do it well on wood bodies. The original Chromeboys had finish cracking and bubbling issues do to wood expanding and contracting with seasonal changes, the follow ups had bodies made of lucite not wood. So I did the next best thing - bought a load of mirror vinyl wrap online and found a friendly auto wrapping firm to do it for me after my own attempt failed miserably. The reflection isn't 100% sharp but only really noticable when you are standing closer than 5 meters. I'm planning on using the guitar for a show coming up on Jan 11. The good thing of vinyl over paint is that I can get it re wrapped if it starts to look a little worn.

It seems to have been a bit quiet on GC of late. I know it’s still early days, but I though I’d start a thread that could be added to once a week (at least). Therefore, I am instigating Tele Tuesday. Post any photos that you like of T types that have caught your eye, or one’s that own (they don’t need to be from the big F, just be Tele like in their appearance). I’m going to kick it off with this Mesinger Maverick that I saw today (this makes my wallet itchy).

Son(16) is a fan of King Gizzard and the Lizard Wizard. Cheap Squier Bullet Strat from Cash Converters and a Most-Marvelous Inter-Fret Job by @Andyjr1515 fella who sits (slumps!) at the bar in the BassChat Arms... (Blah! Blah! and Pics in a BassChat Tech&Repair post) https://www.basschat.co.uk/topic/496955-microtonal-fretting-microwhat-but-sorry-not-on-a-bass/?do=findComment&comment=5264843 When 12TET and 20 or so frets just arn't enough... go 24TET and over 40 frets to play with!

I've recently bought a HB PB50 bass. I rolled the fingerboard edges and gigged it last week. £105. unbelievable

And bringing it up to the present state of play... To balance the purple of the headstock and fretboard, I added a slice of purpleheart to a cut block of ebony and carved the beginnings of the bridge. I also cut the fretboard end to where it will meet the soundhole: Next, I turned my attention to the decoration around the soundhole. Although you have to be a bit canny to maintain the accuracy, I actually find the Dremel radius accessory reasonable for this job: I used a 1mm bit to cut a circle at the centre and wrapped some 1mm b/w/b purfling into it after running a teeny bead of glue onto the bottom edge. After scraping the excess purfling off, I drilled an offset radius tool spike-hole that will be used to put in a second, larger offsett ring (you can just see the pencil check marking offset and outside the installed ring): And then another radius tool spike-hole in between those two to be able to cut - using a 3mm bit - a mid radius to create an offset channel for some curved abelone that, all being well, would fit in between the two other rings. It worked!! And finally, the radius tool spike back to the original hole, but at a slightly smaller radius to now cut right through and create the sound hole : And that's how far I've got so far. It's dinky, isn't it!!!! : Next job is the bracing and 25 foot radiusing of the top. Other pesky distractions mean that it is likely to be into next week before I get to that - but when I do, I'll be sure to post the progress

I am selling this wonderful Martin OM 42 with Koa wood back and sides. Immaculate condition amazing sound and looks fantastic. This is collect only.

My loyalty sale HB DC Jnr. At £128, it cost less than I've seen tgem go for used.... I did wonder if QA might be a little more flexible at this reduced price, but the sole flaw I can find is that one of the screws on the back of the bridge is cery slightly angled. As with the MR Classic, the bridge feels a little cheap but perfectly functional; I'm not anticipating replacing it in the foreseeable. In the medium term, I want to add a totey guard for a Johnny Thunders vibe. I'm halfway tempted to switch the knobs for dice knobs as well. Overall, It's ridiculously impressive for the money. Great set uo out of the bix just needed tuning. Not a sniff of fretsprout or a sharp fret anywhere. This is what impresses me most at this sale price. Back when I started playing in 1991ish, the most basic, plywood Strat type cost more than this new (even without taking inflation into account), and wasn't always as good as this. I'd put it on a par with the Epiphone model. To really go a step up, I'd need to be looking at sonething like Maybach or a Gibson; the problem with those is that it always felt inherently 'wrong' to me to take what is by design a simple, budget instrument and inflate it to "luxury" level. The one thing that I'd like to see Thomann do better is to get the TV yellow colour right. I *might* have paid full rather than sale price over this one for that (throw in stainless steel fretsand it would be a given), but all other things being equal, if it was just the colour I wouldn't replace this one with another for that, which auggests it's not really that big a deal.... Thomann dodo a small range of "tribute" guitars, basically unofficial quasi sig models.... if the MR Classic is a great base for a Johnny Ramone tribute, this and the Fat version should surely provide a great option for a nod to both Johnny Thunders and Mick Jones circa 1976/77 especially. One thing I'm really impressed with, as on the MR, is the neatness of the finish around the headstock, where the black facing meets the colour on the rear.

Well family stuff and domestic 'projects' largely clear and so I'm back to the build I'm not quite at the final furlong stage, but certainly getting closer to it. Next jobs were to finish the rough carving on the back and getting ready to sort the control chamber hatch. For the carve at the back, because it's curved, I am mainly using the larger of the two round-bottomed Ibex thumb planes and also the gooseneck card scraper: Don't let anyone tell you the Ibex planes are toys - they really are precision planes: Those curly shavings are rock maple and ebony! I used a bottom bearing rebate router bit to follow the chamber and mark the outer edge of the rebate - but the curve of the back makes it difficult to get an even depth of cut and so the rebate was cut to final depth using carpenters mallet and some sharp chisels. Done, ready to create the paper template and cut the hatch:

So why are the body wings so deep? Well - because the body cross section is going to have some curves. Mind you, that will mean a LOT of carving - and I will creep up on the final shape and let the guitar show where it wants to go... Here comes in play one of my favourite hand-tools - the Veritas Pull-shave. I think it's designed for scooping out wooden chair seats, but it's ideal for this kind of job: But I also use the block plane, razor planes and cabinet scrapers. Off and on over a few days, it's starting to take shape. Carve here is probably 50% done for the body. In between carving sessions, I also added frets to the (still unglued) fretboard:

Please accept my sincere and humble apologies! To make up for my schoolboy error, please accept 2 for the price of 1, the Epiphone and the Hohner acoustic I bought back in February. Now I am shopping for an amp, as per my post elsewhere on the forum.

Thought I’d add some full length photos and the headstock.

15 years after getting my Martin parlour, which is in the first post of this thread, and 3 years after saying in that post I’d get it restored, I finally did and just got it back The out of place full size bridge was replaced with the proper smaller pyramid style - it’s a bit scarred now because of that, but it is over 180 years old so I can live with that! To make it look less scarred would have compromised the original finish, rosette and vibe. It’s also got new tuners, cracks were fixed, and the back was French polished. Feel blessed to be a custodian of this one. Would love to know it’s stories.

So I got a chance to get this stung up and wow what a difference. It’s been really interesting hearing it before and after I drilled the holes in the well. Before it sounded a little muted or muffled and like it was being choked, or struggling, but now sounds a lot more open. I wouldn’t say it gave it more bass response, but certainly made it sound more controlled. It was also very heavy in the lower mids but the holes have created a little more clarity in the top end, so overall a lot more balanced.

Neck carving and finalising the transition on the heel. Going for the acoustic look but of course bolt on.

Leo Kottke is probably #1 for me esp before his hand injury when he'd play fingerstyle with fingerpicks on a 12-string. Had a really muscular but clear tone. Tommy Emmanuel very close behind though LK edges him because I prefer his material. TE is most definitely best experienced live as he has great stage banter as well as fantastic skills. Two other brilliant fingerstyle players are Scottish celtic folk specialist Tony McManus and the late Pete Huttlinger who used to play with John Denver Electric wise I lean heavily towards inventive and distinctive post punk players like John McGeogh (Magazine and Siouxsie & the Banshees), Terry Bickers (House of Love), Keith Levene (PiL), Andy Gill (Gang of Four) and Geordie Walker (Killing Joke). Hard to separate out these five.

Cone height routed in, which is essentially decided the height of the bridge to be fine tuned with the roasted maple saddle. Here’s the final shape of the route. Tried to make it as bowl like as possible…

Here's one of mine.

My rig at cost of £280 and man, it rocks!!

So what does it sound like? In the hands of a bass player who was in the wrong place at the wrong time , like this: 188268471_1082340528960452_8640598449057920688_n.mp4 Sunday afternoon jangliness created by using both pickups. The Duncan Distortion (bridge) and Warman P90 (neck) when played together have the curious effect of cancelling out a lot of bass frequency giving an almost Telecaster sound that I really like. At the end I play a few chords on the bridge pickup , then neck and finally back to both.

Annnnd rest.

Only ones i have at the moment, probably dont do it justice.

Santa was very kind this year and brought me this little beauty.... I’ve not yet had chance to try all the pickup permutations but first impressions suggest that this is a very versatile guitar - and the main thing is that it can still do the “PRS” sound. I am a lucky boy* *As I am sure Santa will quite rightly remind me whenever someone has need of a new pair of shoes.

I've spent an eternity playing with finishes, getting there slowly, I hope to assemble it next week.

The fastest way to build up speed is to slow down. Get a metronome (or similar 'app' type of thing...), and play the licks, scales, runs etc at a comfortable speed. Every week, turn the metronome up 5 bpm, rinse and repeat. Do not try to play fast. Play at a regular speed, and increase it slowly. That's the fastest, and most sure-fire, way to build up speed. Disclaimer : a medium-sized bucket of Patience is required; it helps a lot. Renew whenever it runs out (as I suspect it might ...).

I saw Segovia at the Festival Hall in the early ‘80s. He shambled onto to the stage and I prepared myself for a distinctly dodgy performance by a man well past his prime. Once seated, the years dropped away from the great man and he ripped the living out of his guitar. Needless to say, I was suitably humbled.

I see no Segovia listed.

True story: I owned a plectrum for about ten years before I owned a guitar!

I have one of these Godin 5th Avenue jazz guitars incoming in about a month but without the fancy maple top. I've found a company here who claims to ghost build them and Godin make some great kit.

Hi guys I'm new here, I've recently been making a series on YouTube about guitars and would love some feedback and advice if possible

If they’re causing you nausea, then yes. Ooh, is that my coat? It’s ok, I’ll get it myself.

I played at a Viking Festival in the middle of last year. I knew mine was going to be the first set on the weekend's music programme; what I didn't realise was that it was also the beginning to pretty much the entire event. So I played a set to a group of people dressed up in Norse togs, carrying drinking hons and replica battleaxes, who didn't yet have enough alcohol inside them to get properly rowdy. The most sedate bunch of Vikings I've ever seen, but a very friendly bunch.

I don't even play these bloody things.